Trekking to the Sanctuary of Avvocata from the Abbey of Cava

I have walked this trail at different stages of my life, and each time the experience has given me something new. It is a path that changes with you: tackling it at different ages means discovering different nuances, where the physical effort of youth gives way to a different maturity and awareness, transforming every step into a moment of deeper reflection.

The itinerary starting from the Benedictine Abbey of Cava de' Tirreni (380 m a.s.l.) crosses Dragonea di Vietri to the Sanctuary. It is a route highly appreciated in the past by the English nobleman Henry Swinburne in the 18th century, who loved walking in the woods of the Amalfi Coast during his Italian stays.

For trekking and outdoor enthusiasts, it is worth knowing that this route crosses forests and chestnut groves. The first stage is at an altitude of 566 m, reached at Capo d'Acqua near the Old Chapel of Dragonea. On the marked trail, you continue walking, slightly losing altitude, until you reach the junction for Cetara, then climb back up toward the Acquafredda spring (875 m).

Along the way, the panoramas of the "Divina" (Amalfi Coast) are remarkable, ranging from the coastlines to the mountains, through holm oak, hornbeam, maple, chestnut woods, and Mediterranean scrub pastures. The itinerary leads across a rocky ridge toward the west to the Serra locality, from which you climb to the top of Mount Avvocata (1014 m) to finally reach the Sanctuary and enjoy a well-deserved rest.

The Hiking Diary

The Beginning: The Abbey of Cava de' Tirreni

Before lacing up your boots, a visit to the Benedictine Abbey of the Most Holy Trinity is a must. It is not just a place of faith, but was one of the most influential centers of power in the medieval South. Consider that in the Middle Ages, the Abbey was so rich and powerful that it possessed its own merchant fleet, sailing from the nearby port of Vietri.

The Journey Begins: Across the Bridge

The transition from the "civilized" world to that of nature and spirit is marked by a simple but symbolic architectural element: the small bridge. Crossing it means leaving daily life behind to immerse yourself in the silence of the woods that Henry Swinburne loved so much.

Into the Mediterranean Scrub

The trail continues gently through wild chestnut groves. Initially, the walk is very easy, but you must pay attention to the ground: the soil is clayey and can become particularly slippery, especially after rain.

After about 45 minutes of walking, the landscape begins to change: the chestnut grove gradually gives way to thicker and lower vegetation, typical of the Mediterranean scrub.

If you walk these trails between October and November, it is not uncommon to meet locals busy gathering forest fruits. It is the golden period for mushrooms (porcini and honey mushrooms) and for the numerous wild chestnuts that cover the ground.

After about an hour of walking, you reach Capo d’Acqua, an essential resting point where a fresh water spring restores travelers before the final effort toward the ridge.

Toward the Peaks: From Capo d'Acqua to Cappella Vecchia

Once past the last few bends, the scenery changes drastically: the vegetation opens up and offers a first, magnificent panorama over the Gulf of Salerno and the picturesque upper hamlets of Vietri sul Mare, such as Albori, Dragonea, and Raito, which seem suspended between the mountains and the sea.

Continuing along a suggestive path that skirts the rock wall, you reach Cappella Vecchia (the "Old Chapel"). This tiny chapel represents a precious historical testimony: dating back to the 10th-11th century, it marks the origin of the deep religious culture that has characterized these mountains for over a millennium. Here we stand before the majestic limestone mass of Mount Falerzio, which dominates the surrounding landscape.

At Cappella Vecchia, you find an essential structure, of which only the exterior remains today. Despite the passing centuries, this place has not lost its original function as a spiritual refuge: even today, there are those who choose these walls and this isolation as a shelter for a life of hermitage.

Observing the unparalleled beauty of the vistas enjoyed from up here and breathing the spirituality that exudes from every rock, it is not hard to understand why. During my last trek, I had the opportunity to meet a young man from Northern Italy who had decided to settle right here, far from civilization.

It was one of those rare occasions that only the trail can offer: we shared lunch, exchanging opinions and experiences in the silence of the mountain. I understand him deeply and, in a sense, feel a hint of envy for his freedom; yet, while viscerally loving these places, I recognize that I would not be capable of making such an extreme choice. But that is precisely the power of the Avvocata: making you feel, even if only for a few hours, part of that suspended world.

The Ridge of Faith: From the Via Crucis to the Sanctuary

At this point, the pilgrims' path follows its natural course along the ridge that turns to the right. The trail becomes almost entirely exposed, offering constant sea views, and is marked by the stations of the Via Crucis (Way of the Cross), which accompany the traveler in this final stretch of spiritual ascent.

For over a kilometer, you proceed along the slope with minimal elevation changes, allowing you to fully enjoy the view. Below us opens the Vallone Grande, at the mouth of which the fishing village of Cetara is clearly visible. From here, the path climbs slightly toward the Vene di San Pietro.

Reaching the first saddle, the gaze changes perspective: for the first time, you can admire the hinterland with the Tramonti Valley and, silhouetted in the background, the unmistakable shape of Ravello. At this point, the red-white CAI markers end; the direction to follow is straight along the slope, staying to the left of the hill, crossing a final saddle before the final descent that leads to the Sanctuary of the Avvocata.

Gazing at Infinity: My Impressions

After hours of walking, the path finally opens up and the Sanctuary appears like an eagle's nest on the rock. But it is turning back toward the sea that you receive the true reward: the view over the Amalfi Coast and the entire Gulf of Salerno is simply priceless.

You literally lose yourself in that blue that merges sky and water. It is a moment of absolute silence, where the fatigue in your legs miraculously vanishes. Only after physically arriving in this place, after sweating on those paths and seeing the coast become a thin golden line beneath you, do you really understand why they chose to build a Sanctuary right here. It's not just about isolation; it's that up here, infinity seems within reach. It is a place that forces you to stop, breathe, and feel, for a moment, part of something immensely greater.

The Sanctuary of the Avvocata: Between Faith and History

Arriving at the Sanctuary is a moment of great impact. Its origins date back to 1485, when a young shepherd from Maiori, Gabriele Cinnamo, while grazing his goats, discovered a cave among the woods of Mount Falerzio. Legend has it that the Virgin Mary appeared to him in a dream, asking him to build an altar in that spot; Gabriele left everything, became a hermit, and began collecting donations for the first rock-hewn chapel.

From Splendor to Suppression
In 1503, with the consent of Pope Leo X, the church was built on the overhanging rock along with the bell tower. For centuries, devotion to the "Madonna Avvocata" grew among the fishermen and farmers of the coast, until the abrupt interruption in 1807: the Napoleonic laws issued by Joseph Bonaparte led to the suppression of religious orders. The monks were expelled, the structure became a military outpost, and between neglect and fires, the Sanctuary was almost destroyed.

The Rebirth and the Connection with the Abbey (Badia)
We owe the current beauty of the place to the tenacity of the citizens of Maiori and the faithful of the Abbey of Cava, who at the end of the 19th century restored the cave and rebuilt the church. Even today, the Sanctuary is cared for by the Benedictines of the Abbey.

Return

Simply follow the same trail in reverse. It is now all downhill.

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